15 Day Balkans Roadtrip

We arrived in Zagreb, Croatia around 1:30 pm. We rented a car from Avant Cars, and luckily they were on site at the airport so we didn't have to go far! Once we got our car, the journey began and we drove to Slovenia. One thing to remember is to buy the vignette when traveling to Slovenia so you don't get charged toll fines.

Our first stop was Ljubljana, the capitol of Slovenia! We recommend finding a paid parking lot, dropping your car off, and roaming around by foot. Here we ate dinner and explored the Christmas markets.

Our first meal in Slovenia was at Čevabdžinica Sarajevo '84. At first we almost missed it! To get into the restaurant you take a stairwell from the sidewalk that goes underground. The ambiance was warm and cozy and we were lucky to get a spot at the bar. The people working were so kind and helpful, explaining to us both the traditional foods to try and how to eat them!

We continued our drive through Kobarid to our stay in Dreznica where we spent the next two nights. We used this as our home base to explore Kobarid and the Soča Valley.

Morning stop for cappuccinos, toast, and a croissant! Quiet vibes for a quick bite. During the busy season, they have a full breakfast menu, but on the off season they only have a couple small bites; so plan accordingly.

We hiked to Slap Kozjak (Kozjak waterfall). During off season, this was a quiet hike. We only saw two other groups of people the whole time! There are some old WW1 bunkers nestled into the sides of the hill, combining the tranquility of nature with the echoes of the conflict of the past, making it feel like a surreal experience. We also came across some goats at the end of our hike, a highlight!

Our next stop was Napoleon's Bridge. This was built back in 1750 from a single piece of stone, across which Napoleon marched his troops, giving it its name. The view of the Soča River expanding downstream from here is breathtaking.

If you have time, we highly recommend coming to this museum! When we arrived, we watched a 20 minute video outlining the history the museum would walk us through. We were then given an impromptu talk about a recent event that happened at the museum, as well as the historical importance of Kobarid during the first world war. Walking through the museum felt like walking through history. It was a perfect way to start the trip, giving us the historical context of each location that we visited along the Soča Valley in the coming days.

We got some yummy pizza and drinks to refuel, and then went to explore and walk around the lake nearby before the sun set!

Solkan Bridge, the world's longest stone arch railroad bridge! This was a last minute addition to our day and we bolted over to catch it in the dwindling twilight. While the drive over Most na Soci was a bit harrowing, along narrow, winding mountain roads, the views were stunning as we quickly climbed above the valley that we had been exploring during the day. We reached the bridge right as dusk was settling and it created a brilliantly eerie experience with the bridge lit up with lights from the nearby city and the Soča River silently flowing underneath it.

Our last stop of the day was dinner and drinks at Hisa Polonka. The food was warm, the ambience was cozy, and the service was friendly. A great end to the day!

It was time to say good bye to the Soca Valley and start our adventure up through the Vrsic Pass and Triglav National Park towards Lake Bled. Our first stop on the roadtrip was the Boka Waterfall. During peak season in the spring, this is one of the mightiest waterfalls in the country where the snowmelt cascades into the valley. Since we were visiting it in the winter, it wasn't quite at its full strength but still quite stunning even when viewing it from quite far away. Walking along the riverbed flowing out of it was an incredible, serene experience where we could take in our serene surroundings, with the sound of the water lightly bubbling around while we took in the majesty of the Alps surrounding us.

Since we had a big driving day ahead through the Vrsic Pass, we decided to have a quick stop at this local bakery to pick up some goodies that we could snack on when we reached the mountain tops. Of course, we couldn't resist the incredible smells and ended up having a few bites as soon as we had them in hand.

No road trip is complete without a perfect espresso cup to kick it off and that is exactly what we found at this little bar and cafe. Not sure why Google Maps decided to label it as a ice cream shop but it was so much more.

From here, we started the stunning, winding path up the Vrsic Pass. This was one of the most stunning drives we have ever been on, as we followed the teal colors of the Soča River winding through the Alps and eventually left it for the switchbacks going up the sides of the mountains. The morning fog was lifting with us as we ascended the Alps, and we were greeted with expansive views of the entire valley and mountainside when we reached the top. We picked up a light breakfast from Bovec on our way up, and sat down at Viewpoint Supca to eat it while watching the clouds lazily drift across the mountains.

As we started working our way downwards, we stopped at the Russian Chapel which was built as a memorial to the Russian workers that died in the construction of this road as well as a lot of the early cable cars and infrastructure that first connected this treacherous mountainous region. Nestled into the mountainside with a small creek flowing through it, this was a truly mystical spot and served as a sharp, quiet contrast to the majesty of the sweeping Alps landscape surrounding it.

The twin lakes alongside a small mountain town provided a wonderful stop to stretch our legs and congratulate ourselves for having successfully crossed the Vrsic Pass. The lakes provide a mirror-like reflection of the grand mountain views, and when we were there, half of the lake was frozen! Try dropping a small pebble on the ice to hear the whizzing sounds reverberate through the ice. The birds also love this spot and there are an endless stream of ducks coasting down to take a swim in the waters.

Our morning breakfast disappeared into our bellies and it was time for a nice, hearty lunch at this tavern located at the base of a ski resort. The soup was savory, the meat was succulent, the beer was crisp, and the tea was refreshing.

Next it was time to quickly drop into Italy (the luxuries of Europe!) to visit the twin lakes of Laghi di Fusine Inferiore and Superiore. While this was a bit out of our way, we were tempted by the stunning views that we saw online from these lakes. Unfortunately, when we reached there, a dense layer of fog had engulfed the lakes and we could barely see a hundred feet out much less the mountains. That being said, the winter wonderland atmosphere, with the trees covered in a light snow layer, the ground frosted, and the air misty and cool created a incredible vibe all of its own. We'll be back again to capture the full glory of this place but we were not disappointed either by the enchanting, unique experience that it treated us to.

Our home for the night was by the coast of the beautiful Lake Bled. The entire town was decorated in Christmas light and felt like a warm embrace of civilization after our chilly adventure through the Alps.

After checking in, we walked along the lake side to our dinner at Old Cellar Bled. Our stroll took us through the beautiful Christmas Market that was set up right by the banks of the water. When we arrived at the restaurant, the main room had already largely filled up and there were no more tables available by the water. However, when we asked them if there would be any water views available, the host graciously opened up the second room just for us and we ended up having a wonderful private dinner with the lake all to ourselves. And of course, the food itself was delicious!

We woke up to a foggy morning with the clouds not quite ready to get up from their cozy rest on the waters of Lake Bled. After an incredible breakfast at Hotel Starkl to start us off with full bellies, we checked out and drove up to the historic Bled Castle. This is the oldest castle in Slovenia and provides a birds eye view of the entire lake and its surroundings. On a clear day, you can see all the way out to the Alps surrounding it but we enjoyed the sleepy vibes that the fog and light rain provided. Any time it started raining a little harder, we would escape into the interiors of the castle which consisted of a working printing press, a chapel, a wine cellar, and a museum! Definitely recommend tuning into the free audio tour as you walk around to gain an appreciation of the rich history of the area. There are also rotating exhibits here which means that there is always something new to come take a look at alongside the ever-changing, dynamic views of the surrounding countryside. Also, Michelle specifically enjoyed the climbing vine in the castle courtyard which is a graft from a 450+ year old Žametovka (or Modra Kavčina) vine located in Maribor.

Whereas yesterday was all about Alpine adventure, today was about cozy vibes with tea and books to pair with foggy, sleepy weather. On our way out of Lake Bled, we stopped at this cafe for some incredible tea and reading outside the old town district of Radovljica. Then, we set out following the Kokra River towards our destination hotel of Vila Planinka.

A destination all of its own, this is one of the best hotels that we have ever stayed out. Located at the heart of an Alpine valley far away from all other civilization, this is the perfect escape from day-to-day life while still having access to the ultimate luxury. The construction of the hotel itself evokes many traditional styles allowing it to melt into the nature and the countryside around it. When we stepped inside, we were immediately greeted by the gracious staff who offered us coffee as we checked in. They gave us a wonderful layout of the many trails and adventures that we could go on during our two night stay at the hotel, and the many amenities that it had to offer, i.e. a spa, a wine room, and an award winning restaurant.

After checking in, we decided to use the few hours before dinner to take advantage of one of the nearby hikes that the staff at Vila Planinka recommended to stretch our legs after a day of mostly sitting. And this was one of the best decisions we could've made as we were treated to this incredible Alpine valley entirely to ourselves. A hike along a row of trees that led to a wonderfully teal lake in the foothills, then transformed into a trail through the forest that opened up to the blank vastness of a white, snow-swept plain surrounded by the dominating heights of the Alps. Absolutely stunning.

We woke up the next morning feeling refreshed and recharged after a cozy night of rest. Downstairs, we were greeted with a wonderful breakfast spread from the hotel which had us nicely refueled for our hike of day to the Razgledišče Viewpoint in Mali Vrh. This little mountain trail snaked its way up the sides of the Alps. First, we passed a little hill where people were having a blast sledding down. Then, we followed along a valley carved by a little stream until we started getting higher into the Alpine forests. Here, we passed through a logging camp before the trail started getting a little steeper and our only company was the sound of birds and squirrels scurrying about the branches. The trees soon opened up and at the the viewpoint, we were greeted by expansive views of the surrounding Alps with the valley we were staying in stretched out in front of us. We sat here for almost an hour just soaking in the awe-inspiring majesty of the mountains and how they kept changing as the clouds kept rolling by. You could truly stay here forever and not get bored. From here, we decided to head back but more adventurous folk might decide to continue hiking through the many miles of trails that criss-cross these Alpine heights.

Alas, it was time to say goodbye to our paradise in the mountains and the staff there that became our friends. After exchanging contact information so we could stay in touch, we headed off on our journey south towards the coast. Our first of two stops along the way was the Postojna Cave. One of Slovenia's most famous tourist attractions, this is a cave system unlike any other that we've ever visited. More than 25km long and carved over millennia by the Pivka River as it flowed underground, there is room after massive room filled with stalactites and stalagmites down in this labyrinthine network of underground tunnels. When Luka Čeč first stepped down here in 1818, he was reported to have said "Here is a new world, here is paradise!", and you can truly understand why when you first take it all in. Even the entrance to the caves, consisting of a ten minute train ride, is unique and truly sets the stage for how massive this entire place is. At the end of tour, we even saw the first and only underground post office, because it truly is the size of a little city down there!

Moving from a natural cave wonder to a man made one, our next stop was the Predjama Castle which was located just a 15 minute drive away. You can also opt for taking a shuttle here that runs between the castle and the cave. We recommend getting the combo tickets like we did to make the most of your visit to this region. The castle is nestled inside its own cave system, which provided a natural defense and enabled residents to only need to defend one front. Legend has it that Erasmus of Leug, a robber baron of the region was holed up here and was successfully defending himself against the much larger army of Holy Roman Emperor Frederick III. That is, until one of his own men betrayed him by letting the enemy know when he was going to the lavatory, one of the few undefended portions of the castle, and they took him out with a well placed cannon shot. Not only can you witness the exact spot where this occurred, but the castle also contains a full armory of medieval weapons and a preserved medieval water capture system that would allow them to harness the water dripping down from the cave walls and use it for drinking water.

We thought that this would be a light day of hiking but the miles of caves and steps of the castle ended up getting us into the tens of thousands of steps anyways. After touring the castle, we saw a number of restaurants in the small town adjacent to it and stepped into this Bistro for a quick lunch before the drive to Croatia and back to the coast.

A smooth border crossing and a cruise down the highways later, our surroundings transformed from snow capped peaks to the serene waves of the Adriatic coastline as we entered the city of Rijeka for our stay for the night.

To close out our night, we headed into the small neighboring town of Opatija which had a much more quaint ambience compared to the developed Rijeka cityscape. This tavern hosted us to an amazing local dinner in an intimate environment. The service was incredibly gracious, the food was spectacular with fresh seafood, and the experience truly felt like we were eating at a friend's home. A friend that also happens to be a world-class chef.

Day 7 would be heading back into the snow to make our way to the world famous Plitvice Lakes National Park, but we thought, why not soak up the coast as much as we could on our drive there? So we routed ourselves through Senj which added only 30 minutes on top of the regular 2 hour 15 minute drive but, those 30 minutes were well worth it. The highways of Croatia are awesome, and the E roads in particular really allow you to both enjoy the speeds enabled by the robust infrastructure while also taking in all the views. We got to follow the coast all the way till Senj where we turned inland and worked our way back up into the mountains through switchbacks that quickly brought us back into the snow.

Fairytale, pristine, otherworldly, untouched, enchanting, serene, mesmerizing. I'm not sure what words can do justice to this place but Plitvice is a must-visit and ranks high in all of the national parks we have visited. The blanket of snow and the half frozen waterfalls only added to this magical place, and the lack of crowds was a huge bonus. The park has two entrances, and we parked our cars at Entrance One in the north. From here, you enter the park on the canyon walls overlooking the lakes and the waterfalls giving you a birds-eye view of the natural paradise you are about to enter. From here, we followed the trails down the sides that took us to a path stretching right across the lakes, bringing us right up close to the falls themselves. This trail is stunning, with the lower falls below you and the upper falls towering above. We sat here trying to count just how many distinct falls we could find but gave up somewhere in the twenties. If you come during the summer, you'll see them at their full strength, but even in December, there was plenty of water still coming down. The trail then works its way back along the lakes and we slowly meandered up the tufas, or limestone deposits, that separate the individual lakes apart, each coming with its own little waterfall. At the end of the trail, there was a small tavern for snacks, hot tea/coffee, or a cold beer to refuel before a short boat ride across the widest stretch of Kozjak Lake. This took us to Entrance Two where a shuttle would take us back near Entrance One. While we were waiting for it to arrive, however, one of the kind park rangers offered us some delicious sweets that she made for the holidays with her mother, which was a wonderful dessert after our little luncheon. The shuttle then took us to a ridgeline that perched high above even the overlook that we had started at, giving us a full view of the entire trail we hiked, before we worked our way back to the parking lot to head out.

A road trip, a hike, a boat cruise, and a shuttle ride later, we were famished, and the local fare at this restaurant, housed in a cozy wooden cabin, absolutely hit the spot. Did we order too much food? Absolutely. Did we regret it at all? Absolutely not. Also, never doubt how good a solid, hot tomato soup can be after a cold hike.

Our stay for the night was in a little town right on top of where the waterfalls were flowing down from. This involved a short drive to get to a bridge that crossed the ravine and then driving through a small snow covered road. At night, knowing there was a steep fall on our side and with the road completely covered in snow, this was a short but slightly nerve-wracking drive. Our little MG thankfully handled it like a champ. Something to keep in mind when visiting in the winter, but not an issue at all in the summer.

We left out bright and early the next day to head back to the coastline, this time near Sibenik. Us being us, we obviously couldn't just go directly there without taking a slight detour to almost visit another country in the process. When we initially planned the trip, we thought that we might need two days at Plitvice. While this is definitely true if you are visiting during the summer, in the winter, many of the inner trails and some attractions like the Supljara Cave are closed, so we actually ended up seeing as much as we could of the park in our hiking the day before. As such, we decided to add in the Niagra Falls of the area, Waterfall Štrbački buk, as a stop on our way down to Sibenik. This incredible waterfall is situated right on the border of Croatia and Bosnia & Herzegovina. While we saw it from the Croatian side, there are viewpoints from both countries. Even in the winter, this waterfall was in full force and highly worth the 1.5 hour total detour that it added to our driving time. The drive there was beautiful and while most of it was on sparsely populated regional highways that are a joy to drive on as they take you from the mountain valleys into the mountains themselves, be warned that the last stretch was on a tight country road. Once we got to the falls, we had them entirely to ourselves and got to fully soak in the views and walk down the abandoned railroad that sits next to it, with our only human company being some tourists that we waved to on the Bosnian side.

I can hear you saying, Michelle, Sumedh, what is this restaurant recommendation? But hear us out on this one. Our original lunch stop for the day was going to be the institution of Kod Pere, a famous roadside BBQ restaurant, but as we passed by it, we saw that the parking lot was absolutely packed, the wait would be long, and we still had a ways to go before reaching Sibenik by sunset. So we made the gametime decision to instead go to this local, well rated pizza bar for a quick lunch. And boy are we glad we did, because this place, surprisingly, not only had amazing pizza but a chicken bake that would shake Costco to its knees! Chicken, wrapped in bacon, filled with cheese, in a freshly baked bread roll, with a side of an entire stick of butter? Heavenly? Yes. Will it take you to heaven? Possibly.

After lunch, it was only an hour more until we reached the beautiful, fortified old town of Sibenik. Originally built in the 11th century, stepping into Old Town takes you right back to an era long past of cobblestones, cannons, and castles. Since our hotel, Armerun, was situated by the coast right in the heart of Old Town, we were able to park our car there and roam the streets after check in. The port is a wonderful area to enjoy golden hour from and you can see just where old meets new on the ramparts that divide the two. Old Town is a maze of labyrinthine alleys that are wonderful to get lost in, and we really felt like we'd been transported right into the set of Game of Thrones as this is where the scenes for the Iron Bank of Braavos had been shot. The Cathedral of St. James is an architectural wonder of a UNESCO world heritage site, built entirely from stone using unique interlocking techniques with zero mortar or wood used in the process. There are also four different fortresses that you can tour within the city although, since we had arrived in the evening after they were closed, we just viewed them from outside and soaked in the twilight views from the top of the hill near St. Michael’s Fortress. If you are lucky, you can even catch a concert here since it has been converted into an open-air event venue!

Another coastal walk, this time on the other side of town, and a short jaunt through the alleys took us to our dinner spot for the night that served some of the best soups in town! Filled up with tasty food, cozy, and warm, we settled in for a restful night of sleep after a long day of adventuring and driving.

Another day, another national park! Krka was a short 18 minute drive away and we decided to follow a portion of the route driven for the annual Sibenik Hill Climb, dubbed by locals as the Monaco of Hillclimbs. This gave us sweeping views of the Krka River valley on our drive up to the Lozovac entrance to Krka. While there are multiple entrances to the park, we decided to start our day with the one that would take us to the famous Skradinski Buk Waterfall. When we parked our car, we became quick friends with an adorable little kitty cat, whom me named Pumpkin. There are two ways of getting down to the Krka River valley, a short bus ride or a 30 minute hike. Since we hadn't stretched our legs yet and didn't feel like packing into a bus, we decided for the latter and it was a lovely little stroll down the side of the hills with glimpses of the myriad of waterfalls that awaited us at the bottom.

Once we reached the bottom, we decided to do the full loop around the park although there is an option to just go directly to the Skradinski Buk viewpoint to see the main waterfall in the area. The loop started our Krka adventure with an intricate series of boardwalks that were built on top of the river, connecting the little islands that formed from the limestone deposits. From here, you can see a myriad of fishes, birds, and other wildlife going about their day-to-day business. There was a viewpoint on this side that gave us our first glimpse of Skradinksi Buk. From here, we continued down the footpath that gently navigated us to the base of the valley, where we made another furry friend, this one we named Pumpernickle. The view of Skradinski Buk from the base really gives you an idea of just how enormous the waterfall and the tufa (limestone deposit) that it is flowing over is, having now hiked from above it to below. Its not exactly just one falls, but rather multiple ones cascading down at many different breaks in the limestone. The boardwalk at the bottom stretches across the pond that forms at the base of the fall, and we were refreshed by the mist of the waterfall as it cooled us down after the hike in the mid-day sun. From here, we then hiked up the other side of the valley that took us to the panoramic viewpoint that is also directly accessible from the start of the loop for our last view of Skradinski Buk before continuing our adventure of Krka.

As is our ritual, a nice hike at a national park must be followed up with a hearty meal and we found exactly that when we stopped at Skradin for lunch. Since we are from the Bay Area, the first thing that Skradin reminded us of is if someone took Sausalito but gave it centuries of history to evoke through its architecture. Nestled on the banks of the same Krka River that was flowing over the waterfalls we just explored but before it opens up into the Adriatic Sea, Skradin seems to be the port-of-choice for beautiful, exquisite yachts to dock at. Since we were here during off-season, there weren't as many restaurants open, but we didn't need many since one exceptional one would be enough, and Patriot proved to be right up our alley. Michelle got a vegetable risotto and Sumedh had a black squid ink pasta with the fresh catch of the day to share and local beer and tea to down it all. Hint: Both Pumpernickle and Pumpkin let us know that the fish here was exquisite and one must always follow the local's advice.

All fueled up, our next stop was the less touristed side of Krka at Roski Slap. Here, there are a number of hikes that you can take, but we decided to do two short ones. The first is a small walk down from the parking lot to the banks of the river which will give you an immediate glimpse of the Roski Waterfall. While not as massive as its more famous Skradinski Buk brother, its still a beautiful sight to behold. During peak season, there is a restaurant here called Seosko Domacinstvo Kristijan where you can sit at tables that have the water from the falls flowing through your feet! (bring appropriate footwear and cash since its cash only). Our favorite part about this side of the park, however, was the second hike we did up north from the parking lot. This took us across an area that had many small little steppes that were formed from the limestone deposits with the Krka River rushing over all of them, creating hundreds of tiny little waterfalls across the breadth of the river. There's, again, a boardwalk that will take you across the river to complete the loop and it's a wonderful place to take in the natural beauty of the entire place, away from the crowds, with the sun kissed canyon walls surrounding you, and the sound of the river making a symphony as it courses across hundreds of little drops in a never-ending chorus. Stunning!

For our last stop in Krka, we drove up a set of switchbacks to climb out of the canyon and closed our Krka adventure with a beautiful sunset at this viewpoint overlooking the river valley. It was wonderful watching the hues of the river change as the sun dropped behind the hills surrounding the valley and twilight fell across Krka National Park.

After Krka, our stay for the night was in Split. Common sense would normally dictate that, after a long day of hiking and exploring, we should just head directly over. But one does not simply pass a historic UNESCO-listed island town without poking in for a quick visit and we did exactly that.

We made it to the historic coastal town of Split. Since we were arriving fairly late, most of our exploration would be saved for the next day. But after all of our national parks and countryside adventures, it almost felt like a shock being back in a completely metropolitan city like Split. This shock was quickly diluted, however, as we made our way directly to Old Town and the coast for our stay for the night and priming ourselves for the adventures of the next day.

Before settling in for the night, we went for a short walk along the piers to our reservation at the Restaurant Adriatic. A local institution, this place was absolutely packed and yet the service was incredibly attentive. The menu offered everything from local traditional dishes served with a fine dining flair to Asian and other foreign cuisines. We decided to try both and all of the dishes, regardless of cuisine, were delicious. We were both glad for the short walk back to the hotel to help settle our massive dinner before winding down for the night.

We had a wonderful start to our day with yet another amazing breakfast (a theme of any good Europe trip). The staff at the lobby of the Hotel Ambassador provided us with a map of Old Town Split and off we went on a little walking tour through history before we made our way to Bosnia. One of my friends who is a huge history buff let us know that we really needed to go visit ol' Diocletian and his cabbages. As you can imagine, we were really confused until we found out the context. Diocletian was an emperor of Rome and despite being one of the most powerful men in the world, he decided to voluntarily relinquish his power, abdicate his post, and retire to Split to spend his days tending cabbages at his palace. I suppose that the position of Roman emperor comes with some really nice retirement perks as he built a massive, intricate palace to spend his retirement years. Situated right off of the banks of the Adriatic, there are many gates that enter into Old Town. We picked one that led us right into the cellars, where we saw some groups taking guided tours that led further into the depths of the palace. From here, we found some steps that opened right up to a beautiful view of the towering Cathedral of Saint Domnius Bell Tower. As we found our way through the alleys here, it really felt like we stepped into a scene from Game of Thrones and it turns out, we indeed had as it served as a primary filming location for the city of Meereen in the show! We found a little farmer's market going on right in the middle of square in Old Town, showing just how much history bleeds into day-to-day life even today. Eventually, we found our way through the maze of alleys and streets to the Gregory of Nin Statue, a towering statue of an old war hero. The local legend goes that rubbing his big toe grants you good luck and as such, this otherwise dark statue has one really shiny big toe!

Time to enter another new country, our third of the trip: Bosnia and Herzegovina! The E65 highway that took us here makes for some stunning grand touring driving and before no time, we were crossing the border into B&H. Immediately, we noticed that there were very distinct difference in terms of the overall infrastructure of the two countries. The history of B&H is still quite fresh, having been through a deadly civil war and genocide only 30 years ago, and the remnants of that war showed in the surrounding countryside where empty, abandoned buildings were not an uncommon sight. That being said, the country is resilient, and it has made incredible strides in setting up infrastructure in the years since and making it possible to see the natural beauty that the country holds. The Kravica Waterfall is one such example, consisting of almost 20 different waterfalls coming together for one stunning view. It made for the perfect stop to stretch our legs on our drive to Mostar, and go for a short hike to the bottom.

As the sun was starting to slip behind the Dinaric Alps, we found our way up a narrow mountain road into the town of Vrelo Bune. Bathed in twilight hues, this place, nestled under the sheer cliffs with a river running through the middle, had a mystical aura about it. When we visited, there weren't too many other tourists there and we were mostly accompanied by the sounds of ducks going out for an evening swim in the river. Truly a natural wonder, the Buna River that flows through the middle is sourced from a spring that is inside a cavern underneath the mountain. While the main attraction that we were visiting here was the Blagak Tekija, we really recommend taking one of the little bridges that cross the river to the other side. When we crossed over, we found a path that took us right next to the river. From there, we watched as darkness slowly settled into this magical little town.

This is a still-active Dervish monastery that was built in the 1520s and we got the opportunity to walk through all of the interior rooms here that really give a glimpse into the life of Muslims 500 years ago. Michelle was asked to where a burka to step inside which is provided by a member of the staff at the entrance. The interiors consist of prayer rooms, meditation chambers, guest rooms, and more. Regardless of faith, just sitting on the balcony here with the sun setting, the sound of the Buna River trickling by, no technology in sight, and the overall surreal architecture and landscape surrounding us, one is automatically put into a meditative state, and we fully understood why this has been an active place of worship for over five centuries with Dervish prayers still being chanted here three times a week.

From one historical town to the next, we made it to our stay for the night in Mostar, a city steeped deep in stories from almost seven centuries ago and having played host to pivotal moments in pretty much every century since. Named after the keepers of the bridge, the Mostari, the iconic center-piece of the town is the Stari Most. Alongside this, one of the things that drew us most to this town was how it highlights different religions, Islam and Christianity, standing side-by-side in resilience to hatred and oppression, and how the destruction and the re-construction of the bridge during the Bosnian War exemplified the resilience of a people who could go through hardship and come out stronger on the other side. We didn't realize this at first, but as we got to meet more of the locals the next day, we were stunned to hear the stories of what they had gone through and left even more amazed by, despite this, how friendly, warm, and welcoming every person we met was.

Given that it was already getting quite late, we decided to find the closest well-rated, card-accepting local restaurant to our hotel that we could, and oh boy, did Konoba Taurus hit the spot. We went for three dishes and all three of them knocked it out of the park: the house special meat platter, vegetable risotto, and baklava. Everything was fantastic and we came in starving and left in a happy food coma. And the service made us feel right at home.

Off we went to see the Stari Most as the rest of the city was waking up. As we made our way there, we saw the store owners setting up their wares out on the cobbled streets. The bridge itself is a beautiful sight, and faithfully re-constructed in its original style after it was partially destroyed due to shelling during the Bosnian War. As we walked around, there were clear signs that were intentionally left indicating the terrible atrocities that had occurred here in the past. At the same time, the church and the mosque that neighbored one another also highlighted how the people have come together since then to find peace.

Next to the bridge, there is a line of local shops that make up this bazar. Some of these are tourist traps selling mass manufacture souvenirs, but several are family-owned artisan shops selling handcrafted goods produced from techniques learned through generations. We stepped into one where an older gentleman and his wife were both working together. He took care of the copper handicrafts and his wife created all of the jewelry. They told us stories about how the man's great-grandfather first opened the shop, and how his son would be the fifth generation to carry on the craft. During the Bosnian War, they were forced to shutdown the shop and, along with other villages, witnessed soldiers marching through their home. But the town never lost its spirit, and continuing their store and successfully passing down their skills to their children, some of whom were now studying and working abroad, was how they kept their culture alive.

After walking through the streets of Mostar, we made our way back to our hotel, said good-bye to the incredibly friendly staff and resident cat, and started our drive for the fourth country of our trip, Montenegro. For this, we had to once again cross-over the Dinaric Alps, but this led to a breathtaking view as we came out of a tunnel that opened up to the Bay of Kotor. The drive then took us down from the mountains right to the side of the water. From here, we started circumnavigating the bay until we reached the beautiful town of Perast. The town is tiny, at only 1.5km end-to-end. Because cars were not permitted inside, we parked near the highway and walked in.

As we were walking along the water, we found some boatsmen that took us and some other tourists on their boat to the little island in the middle of the bay called Our Lady of the Rocks. The legend goes that sailors would drop a rock at this location before leaving the bay and embarking on their voyage beyond. Over time, these rocks continued assembling and forming the foundation of the island. Then, this foundation was solidified and a church was built on top of it when a painting of the Virgin Mary vanished and then re-appeared from here. Sailors to this day still blast their horn as a salute to the lady as they pass by. It's a gorgeous place to stop and take in the views of the entire bay and the mountains surrounding it.

The drive and the boat ride had us famished and since it was winter, there weren't too many restaurants in Perast open. Thankfully, Conte, one of the most famous ones, was and served us a incredible New Year's Eve lunch filled with fresh seafood, exquisite locally sourced wine, and stunning waterside views.

We decided that we would drive through Kotor today and come back to explore the walled city the next day. It was time to get ready to celebrate New Years Eve!

The next day, we had a late start! For the perfect way to nurse ourselves back to health, we started with the hotel's breakfast and decided that it was time to say hello to the friendly cats of Kotor. Kotor itself is a walled city that still preserves its architecture from medieval times. Once you step inside the walls of this UNESCO site, it is like stepping into a time capsule. As we had coffee at a local cafe, we spotted multiple cats roaming around the city on their own. A cruise ship also docked for the day at the nearby port and the town was bustling with what seemed like hundreds, if not thousands of tourists, making for some fun people watching as we explored the city. We even found a little cat park where the stray kitties had water and food provided by the locals. These cats came to the city as ship cats that were brought on board to chase mice and rats, effectively serving as a natural pest control. These cats thrived in the city under the care of the locals and today, in our opinion, serve as much as a tourist attraction as the medieval architecture of the city rightfully earning the place its name "The City of Cats".

Sumedh loves driving so he convinced Michelle that the Serpentine would be a beautiful drive that provided panoramic views from right underneath Mt. Lovcen. The views were definitely beautiful, but little did they know the drive up that they had in store for them!

After viewing the sunset from the Serpentine, we were exhausted, so instead of going out for dinner, we decided to retreat back to our beautiful room to close out the night. Some Wallace & Gromit and delicious Italian & Chinese food room-service absolutely hit the spot. Was it the most local fare? No. But after 12 days of non-stop traveling and a night of New Year's celebrations, this was exactly what the doctor ordered.

Before driving out of Montenegro, we looked up the weather and saw that were was a massive storm coming in from the north. This had us panicking as our drive to Sarajevo would have us going right back through mountain passes in the Dinaric Alps. However, it looked like that day would be the beginning of the storm whereas the worst would be the following day when we would already be driving towards Banja Luka, so we decided to brave it. As we drove out of Montenegro, it was already pouring rain, with certain parts of the road starting to flood and not boding well for what lay ahead. As we drove back up the mountain side, the same road that had been completely dry when we had driven through while coming in from Mostar was now covered in a blanket of snow with more coming down. Luckily, it seemed that a snow plower had recently been through leaving the road itself still drivable. However, as we got deeper into the mountains and off the main highway, the drive got sketchier and sketchier with there being certain stretches where our car started to lose a bit of traction. Luckily, we found a caravan of two other cars that were heading the same way and, with some confidence from this car camaraderie, we continued onwards until, with a heavy sigh of relief, we were greeted by the bustling lights of Sarajevo.

Steps away from our hotel was the bustling market heart of Sarajevo, Baščaršija. Dating back to the 1400s, this bazaar has been the vibrant center of the city's history and culture for centuries and is still thriving today. We roamed the alleys picking up souvenirs like little wood houses to hang up at our home and a hat for Sumedh's father from a multi-generation hat shop.

Next, we visited the famous Latin Bridge, the place where Gavrilo Princip shot and killed Franz Ferdinand, the Austro-Hungarian emperor, in 1914, starting World War 1. Truly an eerie feeling being at the place where the shot heard around the world was fired and started a conflict that took millions of lives. Interestingly, one would normally consider an assassin to be the villain but, upon reading some of the plaques set around here, it seems like to many, Princip was the hero of the story who stood up to the annexation of Bosnia-Herzegovina by the Austro-Hungarian Empire and enabled the unification of all South Slavic peoples into a single, independent nation.

After touring the alleys some more and visiting neighboring mosques and churches in the bazaar, it was time to turn in for dinner. This was really one of those situations where there were just too many good choices as there were restaurants literally everywhere you looked, and all of them seemed to be bustling. After a while of going back and forth, we decided to pick Nanina Kuhinja as the place was absolutely packed, the food looked delicious and homely, and the smells wafting out had our stomach growling. When we got in, we were told that they were actually full and, without a reservation, they did not have a spot. That is, unless we were willing to finish our dinner with 45 minutes as they had another reservation for the table at that time. Given that we were famished, we said absolutely and as you can tell by the photo below, after the drive and our bazaar tour, this dinner hit the spot hard. The meat stew in particular, filled with tender beef and potatoes that had soaked up all of the flavor, was fantastic. Additionally, Michelle had ordered one of their specials for the night, pumpkin soup. We've never had pumpkin soup but we decided to give it a try and this ended up being one of the best soups we've ever had. Unfortunately, we don't have any photos of it because we devoured it all before the thought of taking a photo even crossed our minds.

The next day, after yet another wonderful breakfast, we set out for Banja Luka. This day had the brunt of the snow but thankfully, we were out of the most harrowing portions of mountainous driving and mostly on built highways. Portions of this drive were on the brand new A1, a massive motorway consisting of up to 10 total lanes in some sections and high max speeds. However, the highway wasn't complete and frankly, as we were driving through, we wondered a lot about the environmental toll of such a massive construction that, in some instance, had flattened mountains or required the construction of large tunnels piercing right through them. All that said, about 3.5 hrs later and with heavy snow fall coming down, we entered the city of Banja Luka. To be honest, both of us were quite exhausted at this point and from our online research, while Banja Luka did have some attractions like the Kastel Fortress (a renovated medieval castle), the Ferhadija Mosque, and the Christ the Savior Cathedral, nothing called out quite enough to us to warrant going exploring in the snow so we decided that this would be an evening dedicated to good food and rest. In Banja Luka, smoking is permitted everywhere, including inside restaurants, so if this is something that you are sensitive to, keep that in mind!

While the rest of Banja Luka felt like a quick stop for us, this restaurant was an amazing place to refuel our bellies after a long day of driving. Their specialties are in serving a variety of game meat, including but not limited to, rabbit, deer, veal, bear, pheasant, along with the usual beef, chicken, and pork. Just be aware that with what seemed like every location in Banja Luka, there will be people smoking indoors.

We left bright and early from Banja Luka, both to escape from the cigarette smoke and get back to fresh air, but also so that we could make it to Zagreb in time for the cannon firing that would happen there at noon. The receptionist warned us that the border crossing would take hours and she was not wrong. For the first time on this entire trip filled with border crossings, we finally got stuck in a line and this time for almost two hours! But once we entered Croatia, we were back on well developed highways that sped us straight to Zagreb and its beautiful old town city center.

After dropping our bags off at the hotel, we sped off to pick up some caffeine since we'd been up and driving from the wee hours of the morning. We've had many amazing lattes but the coffee at Quahwa is simply world-class. We even came back here a second time on the same day just so we could have another one.

With coffee secured, we sprinted off to the Lotrščak Tower for the daily cannon firing and made with with less than 10 minutes to spare after an almost 5 hour journey. The Grič Cannon in Zagreb, Croatia, is fired from this historic tower every single day at exactly 12:00 noon and was traditionally used as a way to synchronize all of the church bells in the city. We thought we would be prepared for the cannon to fire but be warned, it is absolutely shocking and is 100% worth the experience and not over-hyped in any way.

Our next stop on our walking tour was St. Mark’s Church. Although the interior was unfortunately closed when we visited, the beautiful tiled roof featuring the coat of arms of Croatia, Dalmatia, and Slavonia one one side and the emblem of the city of Zagreb was still a beautiful sight to see from afar.

As we were roaming through Old Town, we stumbled upon this park that was covered in murals from classic novels. The one for Gulliver's Travels really caught our eye and in the photos below you can see Sumedh doing his best Lilliputian impression.

After many days of local food, we were ready for spice and spice is exactly what we found at this Sri Lankan restaurant which was, not a joke, the top rated restaurant according to Trip Advisor in Zagreb! The owners of this restaurant moved to Zagreb specifically to bring more diversity to the food scene, and they did not disappoint! The street food was delicious and unique, and the daal was to die for. Anyone who's had South East Asian food knows that a chef can be judged purely based off of how good their daal is, and boy was this some delicious daal. And the lamb keema was also definitely not a sidenote. The custom sauces that they have top everything off with a wonderful kick

Next up was the towering Cathedral of Zagreb. This is one massive cathedral and its scale is truly difficult to comprehend until you see it in person. With iconic twin spires, each rising to a height of over 108 meters, this is one of the tallest churches in the world. Unfortunately, it has been in a state of renovation and re-construction since 1990 with even more work being required after an earthquake severely damaged it in 2020. A silver lining here though was that we got the opportunity to see some of the sculptures and gargoyles up close that would normally be perched high up since they had been brought down as part of the construction process. Hopefully, the work finishes soon and we would love to come back one day to see it in its full glory!

After we returned to our room, we were debating between the many different amazing food options available in Zagreb. However, since we were exhausted and had an early flight the next day, we wondered if our hotel's own restaurant was any good. Turns out, it's one of the top restaurants in the city according to Gault & Millau. To our wonderful surprise, the food here ended up being one of our favorites of the entire trip. Expensive, yes, but this was one of the places that was truly worth it for the exceptional and unique cuisine and kind, classy service on offer. A wonderful final meal to close out our trip.

With that, it was time to say goodbye. We picked up our breakfast from the Hotel Esplanade concierge, dropped our car off at the lot (where we almost put it in the wrong section, signs are hard to read in all the snow), and almost missed our flight because we were too busy dining on our packed breakfast. Ultimately, we made it onto our plane with minutes to spare. About 15 hours later, we were back home, safe and sound, and to the delight of our two wonderful kitties, Percy and Prudence, who welcomed us home with many meows and sweet kisses.